Fendi Haute Couture: Kim Jones’ first collection
As explained in the article "Everything you have to know about Haute Couture week", this show was the most anticipated of the season for several reasons.
It alone represents the first collection of the couturier Kim Jones as co-creator for the Italian house Fendi as well as his first Haute Couture show. We summarize here everything you shouldn't miss, including the set, the cast, the looks and the accessories to remember.
This collection entitled “Bloomsbury in Borghese” takes its inspiration directly from the origins of the Roman house as well as from British romanticism.
It is from the Bloomsbury Group, a literary movement created in England by Virginia Woolf, and in particular from the novel “Orlando” by this same novelist from which Kim Jones was inspired. He himself has always been fascinated by this circle of English artists from the beginning of the 20th century and pays them homage in his own way through this show.
1. The set
The set looked like a labyrinth made of transparent boxes representing the iconic “double F” monogram of the house. The different inspirations were put forward in the set whether with the floors reminiscent of the marbles of the Galleria Borghese in Rome or by the nature, flowers and books reflecting the south of England.
The soundtrack of the show produced by Max Ritcher was not chosen by chance, we could even hear passages from the novel read by regulars of the house.
2. The cast
This show brought together the greatest current models as well as icons from the 90’s back to the catwalk.
In the regular ones we could see Bella Hadid, Adwoa Aboah and Cara Delevingne, who had not walked on the catwalk since the last Chanel collection by Karl Lagerfeld.
Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa and Kate Moss also marked the kit by being present for this first Kim Jones show. We were also able to see the American actress Demi Moore who walked a show for the first time and realized as she said “her teenage dream”.
The surprise was to see Lila Grace, daughter of Kate Moss, make her debut in fashion as well as James Turlington, nephew of Christy Turlington.
Finally, Leonetta and Delfina Fendi, daughters of Silvia Venturini Fendi, also walked the show and once again highlighted the fact that Fendi has been above all a family business for several generations.
3. The looks
On the looks side, Kim Jones took the opportunity to introduce us an impressive collection of flowing capes, sparkling evening dresses and androgynous masculine outfits.
The long dresses were studded with embroidery depicting fresco patterns found in the Bloomsbury Group’s home, designs also featured on boots and heels.
The cuts of the suit jackets recall the English inspiration of the twentieth century, but the patterns are directly reminiscent of the marble in the Galleria Borghese in Rome.
Some outfits are a tribute to the great Karl Lagerfeld such as the half satin jacket, half long dress which is a reinterpretation of an archive of the couturier.
4. The accessories
It was not possible to miss the accessories of this collection and in particular the xxl earrings, designed by Delfina Fendi, appointed creative director of jewelry by Kim Jones.
Some of these sculptural earrings are see-through and others look like they have been carved straight out of stone so they look like marble.
As for the bags, we could see “trompe l’oeil” books as worn by Demi Moore but also pearl minaudières directly attracting the eye.
Find here the video of the collection.
